Introduction to Rabat & Tangier

TED CRAGG [00:00:00] Greetings, today we have a two-part episode with some excerpts of audio recordings on location from Azdean and Sam's tour around Morocco in 2023. It continues the theme from our previous episode, where we were in Chefchaouen on the same trip.

Today we are still in northern Morocco. We start off in Rabat, looking out over the ocean from the Kasbah Oudaya, at the edge of the old Medina. A beautiful site with beaches down below, and the river Oued Bou Regreg dividing the cities of Rabat
and Salé. You'll hear Azdean and his guide for the day, Mr. Ali, talk about the difference between the two cities, and some of the highlights and sights to see in Rabat.

Then, for part two of this episode we head right up to the northern tip of Morocco to visit Tangier. Azdean and Sam are standing at Cap Spartel Park, a famous lighthouse just west of the city that looks out over the Strait of Gibraltar. Spain is off in the distance, and you can imagine all the history that's taken place right before this spot, over thousands of years. Sam gives us a bit of background into the place and role of Tangier in Morocco's culture and history, and things to see and do, not just in Tangier but some of the surrounding area as well. 

And then we have a final clip where Azdean and Sam head down to the bottom of the cliffs, only about a mile or so south of Cap Spartel, to the Caves of Hercules. Right on the west coast of Morocco, looking out to the Atlantic Ocean, it is a place full of mythology and legend, and which is very much alive and active to this day. 

Both the cape and the caves are just a short drive from downtown Tangier, roughly 20 minutes, so very easy to get to when you're there.

We love sharing these little clips with you recorded on-location, live on site. You'll hear the echo of the caves when they're standing there. You'll hear the waves crashing down below. Seabirds flying around. People relaxing and having fun down on the beach below the Kasbah. It's a really wonderful ambiance and we hope it adds to your excitement to come visit.

ALI: [00:03:00] To the right side, this is Mawazin part of the river, Bou Regreg River, and on the right side, the other side is Sali, while here on the left side, this is part of the historical Medina of Rabat.

The Andalusian Medina, this is where there is the Jewish neighborhood or the Millah. So it's a very small Jewish community now living in Rabat. It's less than 50 people only and only one family still lives in the old quarter. There has been a program to save the heritage of Rabat like in other cities like Marrakech and Fez and about like 90 percent of this has been destroyed.

completed the walls, the buildings, the historical sites in the Medina, including the souq also. So next to us here, it's the Kazbah with the minaret in the middle. And the Kazbah, it dates back to the end of the 11th century. It's like a small city within the city.

Very soon we are stopping and we start our walking tour in the Casbah. So are you ready for [00:04:00] this? Let's do it. Good. So we'll be having first to walk to the semaphore to have a view of Rabat and Saleh. And then we continue back through the alleyways of the Kasbah to see the meeting point between the river and the ocean.

AZDEAN: I remember being here a long time ago. Yes? Yeah, I have. What year did you come? I would say '92. I came, it was, the handball finals between, Kokob Marrakech and then, the Casablanca team, I forgot the name of it. And I remember we were fasting. 

ALI: Ramadan. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, it was in Ramadan. It was the finals, I think it was around 10 p.m.
We had an amazing time. We had, I remember it because of the symmetry, because of, the other side vividly. We had a really, really good time with team. I'm very happy to be part of [00:05:00] that. I was not playing, but I was just, one of the fans. So this brings a lot of memories, but then can you tell us, these cannons. We saw some similar in Essaouira, for example, and what were they used for and how important were they at the time of use and against whom? 

ALI: You know that piracy, it was a nightmare for Europeans. 

AZDEAN: Oh, I can imagine that, for sure.

ALI: Of  course, you know, nobody would accept, you know, being attacked, you know, the merchant ships. To guarantee safety, many of the countries established peaceful treaties with Morocco, including the USA. 1787 Treaty of Friendship, it was signed by Thomas Jefferson and John Adams. And of course, we know one of the main reasons is to guarantee safety.

Safety passage for their ships. Because the Strait of Gibraltar, it was a very remarkable importance, you know, for trade and for merchants in general. So, of course it was [00:06:00] not easy, you know, to pacify this, and of course the government at the time, it did a lot, you know, to help, you know, stop, even if it was, you know, something that was indirectly encouraged, because it was a source of income.

Oh, absolutely, yes, for sure. Of course, you know, the balance of power started shifting with the industrial revolution in Europe, the invention of new arms. invention of new techniques, so that made it, you know, less, you know, resisting for them. So, for it started shifting to the north, which means it started to be more controlled.

So, to have this, of course, you know, they're important. They're important, of course, you know, to defend, themselves. And of course, they have to defend themselves so that to protect, their So 19th century, it's marked a big, important, transition and policy. It was brought in until 1833, like mid 19th century, you can say.

But in general, it was something that was or [00:07:00] that became under control in the 19th century. These cannons, of course, you know, it's for defending. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, 

ALI: yes. 

AZDEAN: Ah, what a view. I'm going to put my hat back because my bald spot is burning. 

ALI: You see the beach I see. The beach of Rabat. Rabat. So, we call them the Medina Beach, the Medina Beach, yeah, Medina, because it used to be accessible only for people of the Medina.

Oh, I see. There are of course nice, you know, breathtaking beach areas in Salé as well as in Rabat, as you drive south of Rabat, you can see Rabat. Okay, that's impressive. I don't know how to translate it, like, uh, tourism, Balneer, Balneer, like sea, like, uh, sea resorts. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, it's, there's one part of the beach that belongs to Rabat, and it was accessible to people in Medina, which is an old downtown.

And then on the right hand side, it's on the right hand side all the way, and that's the part for Saleh, which is the neighboring city. Okay. [00:08:00] What divides Salé with Rabat or Salah? As we say, it's just the river. And now this is where they all meet.

So you can see, I think if there was a fight, I'd probably say Salah probably would win, because that's a lot less. Well, there 

ALI: was, you know, it's not a fight, but it was kind of Yes. Okay. there was this kind of rivalry in between the people of Rabat and Saleh.

Competition. We do not accept people of Salé, it's like being, in sense, that's why even till now, Salé is not mentioned even by people, Moroccans, who are visiting Salé, they say we are visiting Rabat. It's all the time being overshadowed by its sister city. Okay, in general, so Salé also, it has, you know, a heritage.

It has a lot of historical places, including the Grand Mosque of the city. Nearby there is a madrasa. 

AZDEAN: beautiful.

ALI: Before bridges, people used to cross like this.

Oh, wow, swimming. There were also the taxi boats, the blue boats. Yeah, the blue boats, the taxi boats. The blue boats that they have, [00:09:00] you know, people to each side. Oh, I see. Some of the steamships, they used to dock near here. Wow. Of course, you know, the water breaks have become, you know, more 

AZDEAN: restricting, you know, 

ALI: the activity.

AZDEAN: Yes, yes, yes. And I can see the low tide, the high tide. You see the level of the water? Yeah, I see it. 

ALI: So Sali is being prepared, you know, for more tourists with this hotel. It's a Canadian chain. It's a beautiful hotel. It's a five star hotel. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, It's the Fairmont.

Fairmont, yes. Fairmont Hotel, yes. Wow, what else can you share with the audience, Mr. Ali? 

ALI: We haven't finished yet, but we'll be going for a walk, you know, through the alleyways. Okay. You know, to discover the Kasbah from inside. Oh, wow.

AZDEAN: I can't wait. Let's go.


AZDEAN: What are the must see places?

what would you recommend for them? 

ALI: Like a sea Resort? 

AZDEAN: Not the Sea resort, but the things to see in Rabat or, or Salé as well. 

ALI: You know, Mausoleum Mohammed V. [00:10:00] 

AZDEAN: Yes. And then. 

ALI: the Royal Palace. Yes. Just the outside. It's just the outside, you know. It's on the main entrance. Okay. You see the royal guards. And just the drive. Mm hmm. Gives the impression about royalty. Yes. About, you know, the governmental buildings. Of course. It's circled within the wall through the main entrance.

Mm. So, uh, there is also Chellah. Chellah, yes. Which is a part of Kurdish history. This dates back to the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans also, and 14th century, which is a royal necropolis. Built by Banu Marin Sultans. That's incredible. The Marinids. Marin's dynasty. It has a minaret, if you have ever been to Epcot in the States.

Yes. in Florida. Yeah, I've been to Disneyland. They built a minaret that looks similar to this one here in Chellah. Oh, I see, I see. Okay, I got you. So, besides, of course, you know, the four historical sites, there are museums in Rabat. Mm hmm. There is a modern art museum, the civilization and history museum.[00:11:00] 

It tells about, the Roman heritage. Yes. The artifacts that were introduced, you know, since the 1930s to the museum. There is a photography museum. 

AZDEAN: That's what I want you to tell me about the photography museum. What makes it different than any other museum or even They introduce, 

ALI: you know, uh, this new world of photographers, you know, of this new generation, you know, that, has this passion for photographing or taking pictures.

And there are a lot of exhibitions, you know, of photographers there. Okay. Every now and then. The Roman heritage. Yes. The artifacts that were introduced, since the 1930s to the museum. 

AZDEAN: thank you so much, Mr. Ali, for today. 

ALI: My pleasure. We're very 

AZDEAN: grateful. 

ALI: You should spend more time here in Rabat.

Yeah. And stay here, you know, to have more robots. Rabat has a rich heritage. Oh, 

AZDEAN: definitely. Yes. Sure. Yeah. My 

ALI: pleasure to have you here. I wish you a good time. Thank [00:12:00] you. 


AZDEAN: Welcome from Tangier, Morocco. Beautiful city. We are in Spartel. It just me and Sam today. So, I'm going to ask him as many questions as I can. So there's so much to learn about Tangier. It's beautiful. The weather, it's a little bit humid.

It's not really hot. So in terms of Fahrenheit, I would say probably 72. We are midday, So, Sam, can you tell us a little bit of history about Tangier? give us a little bit of overview, me and the audience, about the city of Tangier.

SAM: Okay, thank you very much For the opportunity first, Tangier is the third largest city in Morocco and it's called the Bride of the North. [00:13:00] The Bride of the North. Yes, one of the beautiful and amazing cities of Morocco. Painted in white, which make her more beautiful. 

AZDEAN: Yes. 

SAM: So, if we talk about history of Tangier, Can talk about like 5, 000 years ago 

AZDEAN: when 

SAM: the Berbers and the Phoenicians settled in the city as you can see they have two parts like other cities in Morocco Most of the imperial cities of Morocco, we have Newport and the old Medina 

AZDEAN: I see 

SAM: so the old Medina dates back to 3, 000 years ago.

AZDEAN: Mm 

SAM: When the Phoenicians arrived to the Medina as you know, the Phoenicians are traders From 

AZDEAN: where? 

SAM: From where? Originally from the Shem, from Syria, underground. 

AZDEAN: Okay, so Shem, why don't we say Shem just to give the audience a little bit of background. Shem is what it is today, Syria - I could be wrong - Palestine, Israel, and Lebanon as well.

So that region. So [00:14:00] that's why it's called the Shem. 

SAM: that's right. Okay, so, as we say, Tangier has a long history. it's one of the cities that never colonized. I see. Since the protocol of Morocco. It was a free zone. So, yeah, where 15, like 15 countries had their embassies and consulates. 

AZDEAN: So it was international city, basically.

it was never part of the colonization of Morocco by any other countries, which makes it kind of, I understand the value of it, and I can see that, you know, just driving around. so you said there's the old downtown, the old Medina, and it's about 3, 000 years old, and then we saw the new part of the Medina, which is, it looks more kind of European, Style built with a little bit of Andalusian, a little bit of Franco and, um, Art Deco.

So what can you tell us about the two parts, the new and the old of Tangier? 

SAM: So [00:15:00] what distinguishes Tangier, especially the old part, which is called Medina, is the Kasbah. The Kasbah. Yeah, the fortress or the Kasbah. It's one of the oldest Kasbahs in Morocco. 

AZDEAN: Oh, wow. 

SAM: Yes, absolutely. And it's what's distinguished from the other medinas in Morocco is the streets and alleys.

It's very, very clean, very good, and very, a little bit spacious. Oh, I see. If you compare it, the old medina of Marrakech, for example, or Fes, it's totally different. They're very narrow. Yeah, that's right. It makes sense. And then the new part was built, like 150 years ago. They extended the medina. Because other parts of Morocco, the other cities, the population move to Tangier, seeking for jobs and opportunities.

I see. 

AZDEAN: Migration. 

SAM: Yeah, migration, that's right. Okay. So they have to extend the city outside the walls of the old Medina. 

AZDEAN: to the new, 

SAM: to the new Medina, to build the new part. So starting the new Medina part, which make it like now a huge. And what this thing [00:16:00] stands here from the other cities, it's like, it's built over the hills.

AZDEAN: Yes, So if you can see when we were driving, we are just, you know. Yeah, we're going up and down and just. Yes, that's right. The colors, the bright colors, the different colors of the city, just really, really very beautiful. What we saw also, it's very clean, very nice. And there's a lot of greenery, uh, which we don't see in a lot of the cities in Morocco, especially when you go to the south, and it's obviously why, because it rains quite a bit here.

So there's not an issue of water in Tangier. It rains quite a bit, around the year. So where are we right now, Sam? 

SAM: Now we are in Cap Spartel. Cap Spartel or the lighthouse. The lighthouse. Of Tangier. Of Tangier. Yeah, this area was built in the early 20th century in order to protect the city from what is called the piracy.

Piracy. Pirates. 

AZDEAN: Yeah. From pirates. 

SAM: Yeah. Pirates that we talked about yesterday. Yeah. This lighthouse used to control all the [00:17:00] ships. 

AZDEAN: Oh, I see. 

SAM: Overseas. As you say, there is like a meeting of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Ocean. Yes. So this, you see the line there? 

AZDEAN: Yeah. 

SAM: This is what separates, the line separating the two seas.

Okay. Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean so this is the, last point of Tangier. Mm hmm. The end of borders of Tangier. Before you cross Spain. It's only 14 kilometers from here. Okay. 

AZDEAN: Okay. Yeah. So it's about 11, 10, 11 miles. So basically what you said, what we're looking at on the left hand side is the Atlantic Ocean.

And then that dark blue line is what separates the Mediterranean from the Atlantic Ocean. And the lighthouse that we have here, and by the way, anybody can pay and go up the top, to the roof, and they can see a bird's view of what we're looking at. Also, you said that. About 14 kilometers, there's Spain, and I can see it from here.

I mean, 

SAM: Especially when it's, when the view is [00:18:00] clear, you can see the Gibraltar. Gibraltar, yeah. Yeah, Gibraltar, uh, because Gibraltar is built as, like Tangier, on the hills. On the hills. Yeah, on the mountain. Yeah, so you can see it clear from here when it's, when there is no fogs, when it's clear, the view, so like, you can see it from here.

It's an amazing view for, since the morning. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, I can see some small ships, some mid sized ships, some large ships. So this is really, really incredible. this time of the year, July and August, is actually the busiest season in Tangier. So if you're planning to come to Tangier, make sure you book it ahead of time.

I would say probably five to six months ahead of time, just to make sure that you have, a place to stay. And also it gets expensive the longer you wait. So I see some restaurants and see a little bit of shops. There's a lot of things here to see and do. So for people who want to go up the tower, the lighthouse, what can they see on the other side in our cases here [00:19:00] behind these trees to the right hand side of the other side of the ocean, What's the view like?

SAM: The view like is the seaside of Tangier, or like what we called it Corniche, Corniche of Tangier. And there is a beautiful King's Palace from here. The King's Palace. Yeah, King's Palace is over this hill. So other side of the hill, so you can see a very nice view of Greenwich. Only from here. Yes.

Yes. And the ocean as well. Yes. The Atlantic Ocean, there is a new part of Tangier on your way to Titouan. There is the other part of Tangier. Okay. The other side, there is many, many beautiful hotels and villas. Okay. 

AZDEAN: The thing that I noticed in Tangier, there's a lot of Moroccan flags everywhere. Normally when that's the case, that means there's a national holiday close by or around the corner. Is there any holidays close by? There 

SAM: is, yeah, of July. July 

AZDEAN: 21st. What's the occasion? 

SAM: The occasion is, uh, what's called, Eid Shabab.

AZDEAN: Oh, Eid [00:20:00] Shabab. 

SAM: Eid birthday of the king of Morocco. 

AZDEAN: Okay. I don't know what the meaning is, not in English. So it's the king's birthday. Yeah, it's the king's birthday. So everybody's invited. 

SAM: Yeah. . Yeah. Welcome anybody. Yeah. tell bit about Tangier, by the way. It's, in Tangier we have the largest and the biggest port in Africa.

AZDEAN: Yes. 

SAM: Yes. Yeah. And they think it's the, the fourth in the world. Oh, wow. where they produce the, the car Dacia. Okay. 

AZDEAN: Oh, I see. Yes, that's right. 

SAM: The car. Yeah, the car, grand Car 

AZDEAN: Dacia, which is called. it's a local vehicle called Dacia, D A C I A, which is a local brand. Okay, that's excellent.

So, I know we're going to switch, we're going to move to a different spot and we're going to continue doing this episode. But just for the audience, for people maybe listening to us, what are some of the recommendations, uh, for go and see and visit if they're spending maybe a full day?

in Tangier, or maybe [00:21:00] two days in Tangier. Okay, 

SAM: for a full day in Tangier, I recommend highly to start from here. From Cap Spartel, then there is our next visit, called Hercules Caves. 

AZDEAN: Hercules Caves. 

SAM: Hercules Caves, and then from Hercules Caves, we move the Old Medina, where we can visit before reaching the Old Medina, Legation.

AZDEAN: Yes. That's a must stop. That's a must 

SAM: stop for a gallery and stuff. Then the Old Medina, you can walk through the Old Medina, you can enjoy coffee there, overlooking all the Tangier, it's a new town. And then from the Medina, you can visit the Kasbah as well, which is a fortress of the Medina. Afterwards, you can have day trip.

A day. One day trip to Tetouan. 

AZDEAN: Tetouan. Okay. 

SAM: One day trip to Chefchaouen. If you have two days. But for Tangier, for one day you can do all this, all this stuff. And of course they have very delicious European Mediterranean food. Especially seafood. Or seafood. Fish. Seafood. For sure. For 

AZDEAN: sure.

Amazing. So basically what you're saying, if you do in one day in Tangier, just visit [00:22:00] the city, everything that Sam has mentioned, if you do in today's. or you have three days, you can do a day trip to Tetouan, which is one of the neighboring cities, which is a small city, just beautiful, a lot of history, a lot of different cultures, especially the Jewish heritage and culture, and then Chefchaouen as well.

So, and Chefchaouen, it has gotten a lot more popular in the recent years, and we all know the reason why, because it's absolutely a stunning, beautiful, city, and you must visit it. in my opinion, your trip to Morocco, especially the Northern side of Morocco is absolutely not completed without you visiting Chefchaouen.

So, anything else you want to add? I agree 

SAM: 100%. So, as you mentioned, Tangier, the peak season in Tangier is summer. It's unlike the other parts of Morocco. So, you have to book specially your accommodation before you go ahead of time. Ahead of time. Yeah, because, they have like luxury five star hotels.

Many of them, they have free yachts. They have villas, private. So, [00:23:00] you have everything. There is something for everyone. Apartments, everything. 

AZDEAN: okay. Perfect. this concludes this small part of our podcast and we're going to go to the next stop and stay tuned. Thank you.

Welcome back to the second part of Tangier podcast. We're still here in Tangier, and as you can see, maybe there's a little bit of echo, but we are inside Hercules Cave, the famous Hercules Cave. So if you're in Tangier, this is one of the must stops, for sure, when you're doing your city tour.

Also keep in mind, the time of day. when you're planning to visit, the mornings are the best. The reason is because there's not a long queue. There's not a lot of wait. in line, uh, we came in here around 3. 30 PM. So there's, they're busy and we had to wait probably about maybe 20 to 30 minutes. So just keep that in mind when you come to visit, Hercules Cave.

And again, it's just [00:24:00] me and Sam, and, he's going to give us a little bit of behind the scene background. stories, history about Hercules Cave. So, Sam, what can you tell us about Hercules Cave? And welcome back. 

SAM: Thank you very much again. so, the Hercules Caves are the biggest caves in Africa.

In Africa? Okay. Yeah. It's called the Grottes. of Hercules. So, we don't have exactly, actually the correct information about the caves. I see. So what we know is that legends, what I'm saying, that's, that's Hercules when he came to Africa, when he finished all this area of Africa, he came back to Morocco and he stayed in Tangier in this area until his death.

So yeah, Many, many resources say that Hercules finished in Tangier. 

AZDEAN: Okay. This 

SAM: is the big power. He finished in Tangier in this area exactly in the caves of Hercules. 

AZDEAN: So basically what you're saying is Hercules died inside these [00:25:00] caves. 

SAM: That's right. Absolutely. Oh, wow. Yes. the caves are 38.

Meters length to, 

AZDEAN: to eight meters long. Yeah. 

SAM: Long. Okay. and, unfortunately, most parts of the caves are fall. 

AZDEAN: Oh, I see. So they're flattened. There's Yeah. You cannot go in because of safety. 

SAM: Yeah, for safety. the caves are discovered in 1906. 

AZDEAN: 1906. 

SAM:  So the ministry of.

culture, and heritage in Morocco. Renovated most of the parts, including the lights here, if you can see. And renovated most of the parts, but unfortunately, big parts of it still ruined. 

AZDEAN: Ruins. Yes. Okay. Okay. 

SAM: So, Hercules, when he finished in Africa, because in Africa before, uh, most of this, what's called sub Saharan, sub Saharan countries right now, were not.

known before only in North Africa, which is called Temazgaland in the first. So the Greece following the legions, so [00:26:00] uh, Benton (painter), if you remember the name exactly, the Benton told Hercules to take care of his three daughters to protect them. So he came here when he finished to take care of all his stuff and his daughters.

This is what the legions said exactly. Yeah. 

AZDEAN: so we are inside the cave. It is my first time being here and I mean I'm really mesmerized by it in so many different ways and I see all families, kids, groups, young and old, just taking pictures and enjoying the moments. And then there's a shop behind us where they can dress you up as a local, the hat and everything. Then you can take picture, you know, for souvenirs and memories.

Also there's few things that you can buy inside the cave. I see, There's a few other places that you can go inside the cave and explore, but most of it is actually, in the ruins, so we cannot really go to it. So, the audience, why should they be here, why [00:27:00] should they include the Hercules Caves in their itinerary when they're visiting Tangier?

SAM: Yeah, sure that the Hercules Caves are one of the wonders. Okay. Of the home of Morocco, not only for Tangier. 

AZDEAN: I see. 

SAM: And absolutely why, why the question is why Hercules came here to stay in this cave. 

AZDEAN: Yes. 

SAM: First of all, he want to protect it from the storms. Oh, I see. Then at the same time, he is planning to control The pirate ships. Ships that is coming from here. This is why he choose all this area. This area exactly the caves to protect himself. And the people, the legend say that he was not only here, but with his team. His team? 

AZDEAN: Yes. So his crew, his people. 

SAM: Yeah, his crew, his people. That's right. 

AZDEAN: I see a lot of noise in the background. Um, a lot of happy people. We are one of them. 

SAM: Uh, I just want to mention something. If you see the gates, the entrance of the caves from the outside, you see like the map of [00:28:00] Africa, map of African continent 

AZDEAN: upside 

SAM: upside, upside down.

If you, if it's that by the chance of how it's created, I don't know. 

AZDEAN: Exactly. Yes. And again, that's, that's the most famous part about the cave. And that's what a lot of people come in here and they take a picture of that site, which is kind of shaped like Africa upside down. Okay. So this has been really, really amazing.

And, this is it for today, for this episode, Thank you so much. Have a wonderful day. 

SAM: Thank you very much.